The Grown-Up Guide To Greek Island Hopping
THE LOWDOWN
The Cyclades are a group of islands in the Aegean Sea southeast of mainland Greece and the destination of choice for island-hopping. With direct flights from several UK airports to Santorini and Mykonos, it is tempting to get an early morning plane and, on landing, head straight to the port to catch a ferry to one of the smaller and lesser-known islands. A more leisurely approach is to use either of these islands as both the starting and finishing points, as the key to enjoying them is timing – stay long enough to appreciate their incredible beauty but not so long that the crowds (at peak holiday times) become overwhelming.
Over 14 days, you can realistically visit three islands at a very relaxed pace, four to five at a comfortable pace and more if you’re happy to move on frequently. Much depends on whether you want beaches, villages, hiking, archaeology or a mix.
Something worth bearing in mind is that ferries can be very busy and chaotic, especially at busy times of the year. At Santorini's Athinios Port, in particular, traffic can be congested, there are often several ferries arriving at once and announcements can be minimal. High-speed catamarans (like those operated by Seajets) are fastest but more expensive, whereas slower ferries (like Blue Star Ferries) take longer but are larger, more stable (the sea can be choppy) and cheaper. The key is to book ahead and give yourself plenty of time.
If you’re put off by the idea of travelling by ferry and you want to travel relatively stress-free, helicopter airline Hoper offers scheduled flights to many of the islands (including Antiparos, Folegandros, Ios and Sifnos) and all connect to Athens, Santorini or Mykonos.
SANTORINI
Starting in Santorini won’t disappoint. Depending on how you want to start and end your holiday (a buzzy atmosphere in Oia or a more secluded experience in Imerovigli), with four hotels on the island, the Andronis group has it all. Oia is the most well-known village on the island, located at the northwestern tip, perched high above the caldera, the vast water-filled crater created by a massive volcanic eruption some 3,600 years ago. It is renowned for its whitewashed cave houses, blue-domed churches, luxury hotels and spectacular sunsets – no wonder it’s one of the world’s most Instagrammed spots.
For the ultimate luxe and iconic Santorini experience in Oia, Andronis Luxury Suites is the group’s flagship property. It’s just off the busy paved strip of smart boutiques, galleries and restaurants but, despite its central location, the hotel’s vibe is intimate and tranquil from the moment you step into its sleek, minimalist lobby. The 39 suites are built into the cliffside and are accessed via a labyrinth of steep steps and pathways – there is no lift (due to preservation restrictions) and a certain level of fitness is needed to get to some of the accommodation. The décor in the rooms is best summed up as a blend of Mediterranean and Scandi cool. All have big beds, large bathrooms with full-size Aqua di Parma products and private terraces with outdoor hot tubs or infinity pools overlooking the caldera and the Aegean. Every accommodation is designed around different water features – some of the suites have an interior hot tub, some a private infinity and some have both; the Honeymoon Suite has an indoor-cave plunge pool.
The hotel is home to the famous Lycabettus restaurant which is perched on several levels on the cliffside below the main building. Chef Christos Karagiannis’ tasting menu is a feast full of inventive and beautiful looking small dishes. The delicious, freshly made bread sets the tone – from there, expect the likes of red shrimp tartare with green gazpacho, squid with a red mullet sauce, miso glazed cod with a poached oyster and the most tender, melt-in-the-mouth wagyu beef; the vanilla parfait with caramel and hazelnuts and the prettiest chocolate mignardises provide just the right amount of sweetness to end the evening.
If you can tear yourself away, there is plenty to do – all of which can be booked via the hotel’s concierge or app. One of the best ways to experience the island and its famous sunsets is from a catamaran or yacht, sailing around the caldera; or you can hire one of the hotel’s chauffeurs and customise a drive, visiting various locations including pretty villages, gorgeous beaches and archaeological sites (don’t miss Akrotiri, a 4,000-year old Minoan settlement buried under lava following the volcanic eruption).
If you’re keen to try the island’s superb Assyrtiko wines, head to Domaine Sigalas where you can tour the vineyard followed by a lunch of small plates with wine pairings. Early evening is also the perfect time to head down to sister hotel Andronis Arcadia (this hotel is more suited to families and pool lovers) for a cocktail making masterclass, which you can follow with dinner at one the many restaurants (the sushi at Pacman Sunset Restaurant is a must-try). If you want to indulge your creative side, a visit to 75-year-old master potter Andreas Makaris is a great way to spend a couple of hours. He and his wife (who thankfully speaks very good English) run pottery classes and will help you create a mug or bowl which will then be glazed, painted in the colour of your choice and sent to you by post.
On your return to the island, if you’ve opted for Oia on arrival, head to Andronis Concept located on the outskirts of Imerovigli. Often called the ‘Balcony to the Aegean’, the village is located on the highest point of the caldera rim and feels miles from the crowds, the party atmosphere and the cruise ship visitors. The hotel is housed in a secluded stone-coloured building and embraces a more modern and spacious aesthetic compared to the cave-like architecture of many of the island’s cliffside properties. Expect clean lines, high walls, polished black flooring and minimalist interiors. The 28 suites and villas have private terraces and pools overlooking the sea and boast breathtaking sunset views. The focus here is on wellness and in addition to yoga classes, sound baths and guided hikes, Kallos Spa offers some truly exceptional treatments in its vast cave-like space.
The wellness-first approach extends to the culinary offerings – Throubi Restaurant (which is named after the aromatic herb with therapeutic properties) serves simple Greek Mediterranean dishes, with most of the ingredients supplied by small local producers. For a light lunch, the Greek spreads (tarama, tzatziki, spicy feta dip) served with sourdough bread, octopus with fava purée and a Greek salad are perfect for sharing, especially if you want to save some space for the dégustation menu in the evening.
NAXOS
Just a short ferry ride away lies laidback Naxos, the largest island in the Cyclades famous for its long sandy beaches, blue and white Byzantine churches and ancient ruins. Greener and more fertile than its neighbours, the island offers a different perspective on Greek island life and the interior is best explored by car – from Naxos town you can take the winding roads through olive groves and orchards, stopping off in tiny villages for a coffee and seeking out family-run tavernas serving dishes passed down through generations. Meanwhile, the southwest coast has miles of golden beaches and hidden coves. Keen hikers should head to Mount Zas where, according to Greek mythology, Zeus spent his childhood – you need to be fairly fit to reach the summit, the highest point in the Cyclades, but you can take a break on the way up and visit the cave where Zeus was born. Follow this with lunch in a shady restaurant in the village of Filoti. Other sites worth visiting are the Temple of Demeter which was built in the 6th century BC from local marble and Portara, an unfinished temple to Apollo.
When it comes to choosing where to stay, high in the hills but still within easy reach of the old town and beaches, the View Naxos fully lives up to its name. The four villas look out over sweeping farmland, and each has a vast terrace and private pool, as well as a kitchen stocked with Greek goodies, bread and eggs. A local guide is on call and can book watersports, snorkelling and advise on hikes and beaches. If you prefer a beachfront property, Naxian on the Beach is located on Plaka beach, a long stretch of soft golden sand and turquoise water on the island's west coast. The adults-only boutique hotel has just ten suites and the vibe is relaxed and intentionally low-key. Décor is best described as boho chic with natural materials, bamboo furnishings and earthy colours. There is no better spot for a cocktail at sunset than the hotel’s beachfront restaurant and bar, Tortuga, where the menu is a fusion of Mediterranean, Peruvian, Mexican and Japanese cuisine.
PAROS
Another short ferry journey takes you to Paros which has quietly become one of the Cyclades' most sophisticated destinations and has everything you’d imagine a Greek island should have – whitewashed villages with cobblestone streets and bougainvillea-covered houses, fishing harbours and crystal-clear seas. You’ll arrive in the port area of the bustling capital town, Parikia – while it wouldn’t feature on our list of places to stay, don’t neglect it completely as there are some pretty, winding streets to discover and it’s also home to the famous Panagia Ekatontapiliani, better known as the Church of a Hundred Doors, one of the oldest and most important Byzantine churches in Greece, with origins dating back to the 4th century.
From the port, a 20-minute taxi ride gets you to secluded Andronis Minois which re-opened in 2024 after a major refurb of an already established hotel. Set above Parasporos Beach, the hotel strikes just the right balance between understated luxury and authentic island charm. The 44 suites, which are done up in soft neutral tones and natural materials, are well spaced out which means that, once inside your room, you feel totally secluded and can enjoy your large terrace and private pool. If this all sounds too quiet and you’d rather check out the other guests, there is a large pool in the centre of the hotel with super comfortable sun loungers. Come the evening, everyone moves to Olvo restaurant where the chef produces an outstanding modern Greek dining experience – think delicious fava bean dip with chorizo, tarama with bottarga, a delicious pasta dish with flaky lemony eel and some very tender beef.
Away from the hotel, if you’re after some shopping followed by a bit of nightlife, picturesque Naoussa is a buzzy harbour town where fishing boats sit alongside elegant waterfront restaurants. The old town is a maze of narrow alleys and whitewashed houses where you’ll find some chic independent boutiques. Look out for Heel (Hellenic Ethical Eco Lab) which sells Greek-made garments in organic fabrics and On Aura Tout Vu for limited edition jewellery and fashion accessories. Follow this with dinner at Barbarossa on the seafront – the location is amazing and it’s great for people-watching while you tuck into huge platters of fish, seafood and pasta.
The island is dotted with pretty traditional villages, each with its own character. The one must-visit is Lefkes – once the island’s capital, the village is a maze of marble-paved paths, whitewashed houses, blue shutters, bougainvillea-filled courtyards and hidden squares. Cars are largely kept outside the historic centre, making it wonderfully peaceful to explore on foot and, because of its elevated position, there are sweeping views across Paros and towards neighbouring islands. If you’re after something a little more energetic, the Byzantine Road is an easy to moderate, mostly downhill 3.7km hike which begins in Lefkes – you’ll walk along the historic centuries-old marble path to the village of Prodoromos through olive groves and amazing panoramic views of the mountains, the Aegean and neighbouring islands.
SIFNOS
Long celebrated by Greeks for its culinary heritage (chickpea stews are the specialities), Sifnos combines understated elegance with a refreshingly low-key atmosphere. It’s the place to slow down where the pace of life feels blissfully unhurried. Whitewashed churches dot the hillsides, footpaths connect traditional villages and there are several secluded swimming spots to explore – Vathi Beach is a particular highlight. It is also known for its ceramics – scattered across the island, local artisans use age-old Sifnian traditions to produce the earthenware casseroles used for revithia (baked chickpeas).
During the summer months, the island comes alive with food markets and outdoor merchants selling local seafood and sweet treats. A favourite spot to eat is Pelicanos, on Faros beach, where chef Giorgos Samoilis places local ingredients firmly at the centre of the menu, from small plates to fresh seafood and homemade pasta. Samoilis has also recently opened deli Lamarina where you can buy freshly made bread and tuck into delicious tray-baked dishes like moussaka, pastitsio and slow-cooked vegetables.
There are plenty of stylish holiday homes and villas to choose from on the island, but Verina Astra is a failsafe choice. Set on the side of a steep hill above Poulatis beach, this beautiful hotel has breath-taking views. There are 14 rooms and suites to choose from, each one with distinct minimalist design, as well as an infinity pool and outdoor wellness area. The vibe is laidback, and staff can organise a range of activities, including pottery classes, boat trips, cooking lessons, massages and yoga classes.
5 MORE CYCLADEAN ISLANDS TO EXPLORE…
Folegandros
An hour by ferry from Santorini, Folegandros is a chilled, slow-paced island, a world away from its famous neighbour but, like Santorini, it has pretty towns with tavernas, quirky boutiques and churches perched on cliff tops. Five-star boutique hotel Gundari is an all-suite property set in a spectacular location in over 80 acres of pristine nature bird reserve. The 25 suites and two villas all have private heated infinity pools that seemingly tumble over the cliff into the Aegean Sea. The hotel also has a cliffside pool with a swim-up cocktail bar and an organic farm with a wine bar and farm-to-plate restaurant. For a more affordable option, we also love stylish Anemi which is just two minutes’ drive away from the port and boasts fabulous views.
Tinos
A short ferry ride from Mykonos, Tinos remains largely undiscovered by tourists but is known among Greeks for its Orthodox history (one of its churches is an ancient pilgrimage site), sandy beaches and burgeoning foodie reputation. For a stylish stay, luxurious beachfront retreat Odera sits in a secluded bay on the south coast, just 5km from the lively main town of Chora, and has 77 elegant rooms and pool suites, an expansive spa and private beach club. Other excellent options include: Tinos Boutique Villas (a cluster of secluded villas for two to ten) that sit on a hillside in the south of the island and have a communal infinity pool, concierge service and astounding views of the Aegean; and Xinara House, an 18th-century bishop’s house in a peaceful hamlet beneath Mount Exomvourgo that has been meticulously restored into a light-filled, contemporary and stylish Greek home.
Syros
Syros is the cultural and intellectual capital of the Cyclades and very much a lived-in place. It was once the wealthiest place in Greece, and the main town of Hermoupolis is awash with palatial buildings and large neoclassical public squares. Here, in the historical centre and just a few minutes’ walk from the beach and an easy stroll into the central square and waterfront tavernas, you will find Aristide Hotel. The owners, sisters Jasmin and Oana Aristide, fell in love with Syros and the house, which is one of the last neoclassical mansions to be built in Greece and have kept changes to a minimum to maintain the generous spaces and original architectural details. The nine suites have been designed with a focus on contemporary furnishings and lighting, and sustainability. Three of the suites have their own plunge pool and original contemporary art works hang throughout the property. The rooftop restaurant is fast becoming the island’s hottest dining spot.
Antiparos
Only ten minutes by ferry from Paros, this tiny island is a true Greek hidden gem and it’s no wonder A-listers like Tom Hanks and Madonna love it as a holiday destination. There’s not much to do on the island apart from soaking up the sun and lazing on one of the many uncrowded golden beaches, though it is worth visiting the millenia-old caves where stalagmites and stalactites spiral vertically down 100m – Lord Byron is said to have inscribed his name here in the early 19th century.
The accommodation on the island tends to be bed and breakfast but, if you need to unwind and recalibrate, The Rooster is a resort that embraces ‘slow living’ and focuses on wellness. The property is all about space and privacy, with just 17 suites, villas and houses of different sizes. Its House of Healing is a peaceful sanctuary where the team will introduce you to custom-made treatments to help you relax and destress. The owner has also taken over and renovated eight-room The Beach House which is situated on the water’s edge in the sandy cove of Apantima, one of the island’s best sheltered beaches.
Milos
Famous for the discovery of the Louvre’s Venus de Milo statue in 1820, Milos has Venetian fortresses, colourful fishing villages and more than 70 beaches, many of which are considered the best in the Aegean. It is also the geologist’s dream with its lunar-like volcanic landscape, unusual rock formations and the most dramatic coastline of all the Greek Islands – don’t miss the rugged white cliffs at Sarakiniko Beach. With a raft of new places to stay, a burgeoning restaurant scene and lots of lovely waterfront bars, the island is on the cusp of becoming a sought-after holiday spot. Book into the adult only Domes White Coast Milos with its private beachfront nature reserve and an infinity pool for every suite, luxury is guaranteed.
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