An Inspiring Jewellery Designer Talks Trends, Favourite Pieces & Business Lessons
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My style is all about timeless basics. I end up having a uniform of sorts during the day – I’m often in jeans or trousers. In the evening, I love dressing up in fun outfits and party dresses. I would say I'm more colourful in the evening. Sandra Mansour makes the dreamiest evening wear.
There are two big jewellery memories from childhood stand out to me. One of them was a gift from my brothers; it was a locket in the shape of a heart which had the initials of my three brothers engraved on it. The other was from friends of my parents. They were from Syria – which was only a two-hour drive from Beirut. They’d come for lunch and one of the gifts they brought was traditional handmade Syrian jewellery. It’s gold, light as paper and typically has little coins dangling from it.
I grew up surrounded by women with very specific tastes. They were also very opinionated about style. I'm Lebanese originally, but my aunt was a fashion designer in Paris in the 70s and 80s. She had her own brand and it was very cool – lots of little skirts, cutouts, lurex, leather and fun details. I spent a lot of time playing in her atelier. It had a little sewing machine and I’d use her leftover fabric to make dresses.
Both Paris and Lebanon have really influenced my style. In Paris, you're constantly surrounded by elegant women but Lebanon is so artisanal. There's a large community of artisans and makers there. There's also an Armenian community, which is very specialised in goldsmithing, stone carving and setting. So, it’s very much part of the culture to go to the local jeweller and get something made.
Gemstones have always fascinated me. That was the starting point for my own brand. I studied art history in Paris but after finishing university I moved to London and went to the Gemological Institute of America, and then Central Saint Martins. Today, I wear a lot of my own jewellery, but I like mixing it up with other brands, too. I pick pieces up from auctions and flea markets in Paris. My engagement ring is from S. J. Phillips – it's a 1920s hexagon diamond which I love because it's antique, but it looks so contemporary at the same time.
Alaïa is a designer I’m always inspired by. He was inspired by sculpture and although that hasn’t inspired my designs directly, it’s this same timeless style that I'm constantly drawn to. Less is more when it comes to fashion. I'm not a pattern and colour type of person – even though I love both in jewellery. I also love woven Indian textiles, Middle Eastern textiles and Turkish textiles, as well as vintage pieces.
It's important to look at clothes the same way you look at jewellery – as things that stay with you rather than just a seasonal item you might get bored of. When I’m shopping, I often ask myself, ‘am I still going to love this in ten years?’ That determines whether I buy it or not. I try to be mindful because there's so much excess these days.
You’ll find anything and everything from The Row on my wish list. The men’s knits are amazing. I also buy from the Loro Piana outlet and I’ve found some really nice things in Sézane’s men’s collection, Octobre Editions. We spend a lot of time in the mountains in the winter, so I’ll buy men's North Face jackets instead of women’s because I prefer the oversized shape. My favourite piece in my wardrobe is a black Miu Miu shirt. It's in-between a shirt and a jacket and it just works with everything – trousers, a dress, skirts. Also, ‘Coastal Grandma’ is a trend I’ve – unintentionally – embraced. I found myself wearing a lot of white jeans, white cords, beige, oatmeal and greys and then I found out that it's actually a thing.
Nadine Kanso is a Middle Eastern designer I love. I have an Arabic calligraphy bracelet of hers. It says ‘Love’ and I wear it on repeat. She's very talented and really has her own voice. The way she designs, the way she's been inspired by the Middle Eastern… I love everything she does.
New York has the best shopping. I loved walking and exploring all the different areas – especially the Lower East Side. There's a jewellery store I really love called DeVera and I also love Bodé.
India is another place I find very inspiring. The yoga philosophy, the sacred geometry, the Islamic art, the Buddhist architecture… All of it translates into my designs. My own pieces are also made in Jaipur – it’s the centre for coloured stones and traditional jewellery making techniques. I don't work with any big factories. It's all done in a very intimate way with local artisans.
My customer is a woman with a strong sense of identity. Over the years, a lot of confident women have worn the brand. Dian Von Furstenberg wears my ‘Wing’ earrings all the time. Every year she gets a new piece of my jewellery. Zaha Hadid was one of my mum's university friends and she used to wear my jewellery a lot – she's someone who had such individual, unique style.
Next, I'm working on two exciting projects. One of them is a collaboration with an ethical emerald mine called Muzo. It often works with small businesses like mine, giving them stones to design pieces with. I have six emeralds to create one-of-a-kind pieces with right now. I’ll also be launching an engagement ring collection soon – using what they call post-consumer recycled stones i.e. stones that have been unset from antique jewellery. There are five rings – four with diamonds, and one with an emerald. Then there's wedding bands as well. Watch this space…
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Photography Susheel Schroeder
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