A Top Hairstylist Talks Trends, Maintenance Tips & More
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I fell in love with colouring many years ago. Today, I’d say my approach to hair colouring is slightly different to the average. Over the years I’ve tried many different methods, and it quickly became clear to me that I needed to create my own signature colour and technique. I wanted to find a technique that maintained the integrity and health of the client’s hair, whilst also giving them a natural looking colour that grew out seamlessly. I’ve perfected my approach over the last seven years at my Chelsea salon and now I do lots of pop-ups around the world.
The biggest colour trends for autumn all revolve around warm, natural tones. Now is the time to stay away from cold, ashy or silvery colours which can really drain your complexion. For anyone who’s feeling brave, a copper gloss can be a great way to add some shine and complement your skin tone. A lot of clients are also requesting our metal detox. After summer sun and swimming pool chlorine, coloured hair is at its worst in terms of health. At the start of a new season, I always recommend using a cleansing treatment that will remove toxins and strip back the build-up to bring you hair back to that fresh healthy colour you started with. This is the best time to invest in salon treatments to get your hair ready for party season.
I’m so happy that blocky colour and heavy hair painting is on its way out. Instead, multi-dimensional fine high lighting is in. Favouring the finer details is a great way to build your colour gradually and give you that ‘quiet luxury’ look.
My Middle Eastern clientele tend to have darker hair and they appreciate the way I work. I don’t tend to over colour the hair and always work with the natural bases, rather than going against them. We just want to slightly enhance the colour rather than completely transform it. I tend to only see my clients twice a year, so I focus on a faultless root blend that allows the colour to grow out naturally. They can then come to me in between these appointments for metal detoxes and glosses to ensure the colour looks fresh.
@LIMOZLOGLI
Ashy cool tones are very popular in the Middle East – but they go against my colouring principles. Clients come to me to take the hair back to its natural tone and to lift the hair in a subtle and clean way. It sounds simple but taking someone from blocky colour or adding a natural tone to an ashy tone can be hard work and each client requires a different order of colour treatments. There is no one-size-fits-all solution.
For a hair colouring newbie, I always try to create a sun kissed effect, especially around their face, so they can see the change. It’s very natural and doesn’t need regular maintenance. I would never advise a drastic change on the first visit. For some people, gradual is the way forward. The further you move away from your natural colour, the more you will need to maintain it, and we are completely against that. We only believe in low maintenance. However, we do get a lot of clients who need colour correction, and this might be when something drastic is more necessary.
I always want my clients to be honest about their results. I think I speak for all hairdressers when I say that. It’s better to say something in the moment rather than later, so explain your concerns up front. Sometimes it’s something we can fix in that very moment, so you don’t need to come back. In some cases, we ask clients to stick with the change for a couple of weeks and wash their hair a few times before coming back. That’s because demi permanent glosses can lighten with a few washes without compromising the natural base. If they’re still not happy, I try to find a solution. At my salon, we strongly believe in the health of the hair, and we can’t compromise on this – but we want clients to feel happy, so an open dialogue always helps.
@LIMOZLOGLI
It's so important look after your hair and make sure you’re using the right products. From time to time, you can use a cleansing shampoo to gently remove build-up – but make sure you’re always using moisturising shampoos and masks. Try to avoid purple shampoos at all costs as these can affect your colour permanently. At the salon, we love the Acidic Bonding Concentrate 5-Minute Liquid Mask by Redken. It’s a sulfate-free liquid mask formula that quickly melts into hair for unrivalled strength, moisture, detangling and shine in just five minutes. It also closes the cuticle and creates a smooth finish.
Box dyes are not something I’d recommend people use. They’re stronger, there’s little control and they can lift the hair to the wrong level. Using one normally makes the hair too dark and inky. If budget’s an issue, try booking in with a junior colourist to look at your roots; if the formula is right, then a more junior team member can handle the application. For traveling clients, we like to give them their formula so they can maintain their colour on the go.
Root blends and glosses will help you avoid any harsh regrowth before your next appointment. As for greys, there are some great sprays on the market that can cover them up in the interim, plus powders are very handy if you have an event and need to cover your roots. Grey hairs are the biggest challenge for all hairdressers. If you have a lot of greys, it does mean more maintenance but there are always solutions – many of which don’t include permanent colour.
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