10 Expert Brow Rules You Need To Know

“The most common mistake people make is over-plucking. They remove too many hairs, leaving their brows looking sparse or uneven. This creates a harsh, unnatural look. It’s crucial to respect the natural arch and fullness of your brow. Think of it as the foundation for a balanced, flattering shape.”

“Rather than following trends, I always recommend sticking to your natural shape. Each face has its own unique structure, and your brows should complement that. I use brow mapping techniques to find the perfect arch based on your facial features. Enhancing your natural shape will always give you the right look.”

“I swear by the golden ratio when it comes to finding the right brow proportions. Ideally, your brow should be about one and a half times the length of your eye, with the arch peaking roughly a third of the way along. Whether your face is oval, square or round, brow mapping ensures a tailored, flattering look. For example, if you have an oval face, soft, slightly arched brows are the best option to maintain balance. For a round face, higher arches help create the illusion of length. Those with a square face benefit from angled brows with a sharp arch to soften the jawline. A heart-shaped face is complemented by a rounded brow with a soft arch and for a diamond-shaped face, straight brows with soft angles work well to widen the forehead.”

“When it comes to grooming, you should maintain your brows every four to six weeks. This keeps the shape in check. If you’ve had a bad brow experience or overplucked, let them grow for at least six to eight weeks before seeing a professional.”

“Cold-pressed castor oil is one of my favourite natural remedies for promoting hair growth. If you have sparse areas, use a brow pencil or powder, and make sure to blend it well for a natural finish. Tinted brow gels and growth serums are also great for adding volume and fullness.”

“Every brow grooming kit should include brow scissors, slant tweezers, a spoolie brush and a brow pencil or powder. I also recommend using a high-quality brow serum like M2 BEAUTÉ to keep your brows nourished and healthy.”

“Brow tinting is perfect for those with lighter hairs who want a subtle colour boost. Microblading, on the other hand, is ideal for anyone with sparse or uneven brows looking for a more defined, semi-permanent look. It’s all about finding what works best for your lifestyle.”

“For a natural look, use light, feathery strokes with a pencil or powder that matches your natural hair colour. Start in the middle of the brow and work outward. Blend with a spoolie brush to soften any harsh lines, and finish with a clear gel to keep everything in place.”

“If you’ve overplucked, stop tweezing and let your brows grow for at least two months. Use nourishing brow oils or serums to encourage growth, and in the meantime, you can use a stencil to help shape them as they grow back.”

"Another big mistake is shaping your brows in poor lighting. Bad lighting can lead to over-plucking or uneven brows, as you can't see the finer details clearly. Always use bright, natural light or a well-lit mirror to get the best results.”

Book in with Suman for semi-permanent makeup treatments at her studio in Chelsea, London, or visit one of her brow and lash bars in Belgravia, Fitzrovia, or Marylebone for bespoke shaping and tinting services. Visit Suman.London for more information.

Suman is also available for international appointments in Dubai, India, and the Gulf region. Contact her directly via WhatsApp at +971 54 250 6811 or email [email protected] for bookings.