An Insider’s Guide To Delhi
India’s capital is the hub from which I travel around other parts of the country, but it’s also where you can see so many monuments, jostle through vibrant markets, head to an art gallery, or take in a mini yoga and meditation retreat. If you only get to see one part of India, choosing Delhi is a safe bet as this city has much to offer – and once acclimatised, you may feel adventurous and want to travel further. Internal flights are easy and efficient, so my advice is to not be afraid to rock up to the airport and take it from there…
Where To Stay
The Taj Mahal: I’ve been coming to the Taj since my early 20s. Far more fashionable, fabulous hotels have emerged since, but this gem still has my heart. Delhi can be so hectic but the tasteful opulence and old-world charm of the Taj makes me feel glamorous again. From the Lutyens diplomatic area, it’s super easy to do a little sight-seeing and shopping as both the Red Fort and Khan market are close by. The Taj itself has several impressive restaurants. I work at break-neck speed in India, so a little indulgence feels well deserved and gives me the energy I need to move beyond Delhi.
Heritage Hotel: On the outskirts of the capital, Heritage Village in Maneser is a 45-minute drive from Delhi and the ideal place to finish my trip before returning home. Modelled on a Jaipur palace, the hotel is spacious, and the surroundings are lush, which means I can spend my days in relative solitude and in the company of a lovely team. This is not a hip hotel, but it has rustic elegance and a smart simplicity. I get to wake up to daily yoga classes on the lawn, eat wonderfully balanced food, take regular massages and it’s all so fuss free. You can go days and only see a handful of people, which is what you’ll crave after densely populated Delhi. If you do want a bit more buzz, my tip is to arrive at the tail end of the wedding season, so you can enjoy the full proceedings from your balcony, as this is quite the experience. Such is the hospitable nature of Indians, you’ll probably be invited to attend, if you so wish. Or you can even do a little star gazing, which is rather more challenging in central Delhi.
@MauliRituals
Where To Shop
N-Block GK 1: A world away from the many giant city malls, this charming little square is filled with homegrown heritage brands. For clothing, head to Fab India or my favourite Jaypore – both are ideal for simple but well-made kurtas. I take very few clothes and prefer to pick up a few new pieces in N-Block, which I then wear throughout my trip. I also pop into Full Circle for a wonderful selection of novels, handmade cards and long conversations with the lovely owners.
Artisan Lab: My sister recently introduced me to Artisan Lab, which sells chic, modern home accessories and has a great little juice bar. When I land in India, this is where I purchase my thank you gifts. The wonderful team have them couriered around India, with the handwritten notes I fill out in the store, meaning I don’t have to carry them all round with me.
M-Block: This is close to N-Block. It’s busier and not nearly as refined, but you’ll find street vendors that will repair your jewellery, handbags or shoes on the spot. You can even get bespoke jewellery made. Last time I went, I noticed there were suddenly rather a lot of stores selling fake designer bags, and some looked rather impressive, if I’m honest. Make sure to head to Claw – a rather scrappy-looking nail bar that’s worth it just to have the staff serenade you with a Bollywood tune while they file and polish. Tell them my sister Suman sent you.
Khan Market: Khan Market has a tasteful edit of Indian designers, cafés and bookstores. Key stores to pop into are Good Earth for home textiles, bath and body products, and stunning sarees. There’s Amrapli for traditional gold and silver jewellery with an edge, and Kama and other similar stores for Ayurvedic self-care. For Indian food, try Soda Bottle Opener Wala. If you are so inclined, you could start your morning with a laughter yoga session in Lodi Gardens, before heading here for brunch, shopping and a blow dry. Khan Market has it all and is the place to spot Delhi’s cultural elite.
Ambience Mall: There was a time when shopping meant sweltering in 46ºC heat and getting nowhere fast. That’s changed and Delhi is now home to some of the swankiest shopping malls in India. Some look like the lobby of a five star hotel. Ambience Mall is an example of a good-quality mall in which you’ll find all the best global brands, from high end to high street. The point of these malls is convenience and they have become a place to hang out on hot days. I’ve seen newly married villagers taking day trips here in their intricate sarees, with family snapping away as they marvel at the ‘mall experience’. Among the known brands, you will also find homegrown brands that you may not see outside of India, so it’s worth a visit. Plus, the top floor has a cheap and cheerful food court that’s really rather good.
Sum Sum Sarees: Full disclosure, Sum Sum Sarees is my sister’s business. It’s brilliant for anyone who wants to go traditional, but simply can’t walk in a saree, let alone tie one. Born and brought up in London, my sister packed her bags for Delhi 16 years ago and has never looked back. Sum is known for her much-copied ‘easy drape saree’, which can be tied in 30 seconds, even by a novice. Worn by a host of Bollywood stars, her full range of sarees runs from beautiful plain silks to embroidered and chainmail.
Where To Eat & Drink
Café Dori Café: This contemporary pan-European café is set in South Delhi’s Chhattarpur, within the brand’s concept store. Once an abandoned warehouse, this store has floor-to-ceiling windows, black steel beams and is decorated with an array of plants – a perfect backdrop for showcasing thoughtfully made trinkets, beautifully cut clothing, and the brand’s signature travel cases and trunks. It’s also fab for people-watching Delhi’s effortlessly stylish (but not flash) crowd. It’s dog friendly too, so if you’re missing your pooch, you’ll be able to stroke some furballs here. Chhattarpur is becoming the hub for cool places to eat and designer clothing, so it’s absolutely worth a visit.
Olive Bar & Kitchen: This popular restaurant seems like one of those places that you may want to visit to tick a box, but it is so much more than that. Delhi can get extremely hot and busy, and there are moments when it can all become overwhelming. This Mediterranean, tree-lined courtyard restaurant offers a welcome reprieve from the crowds, and the food is really good.
Indian Accent: This Michelin-starred restaurant serves a modern menu that shows off the many subtle flavours of India, but with an international twist – much like its sister restaurant in London. The food is excellent, but be mindful of the drinks bill – it’s higher than the UK and once you get used to India prices, that feels like a lot. But if you’re going to have a blowout, this is the place to do it.
Rowena Naylor/Stocksy United
1911 At The Imperial: The Imperial is like stepping into a period drama that takes you back to colonial times. If you can get beyond that and enjoy the interiors for their refined luxury style, it’s well worth a visit, as is the in-house restaurant 1911. You can visit any time for the all-day dining buffet option, with a choice of pan-Indian or Italian, and then lounge around until afternoon tea. I like to head over in the early evening for cocktails on the veranda.
What To See & Do
National Gallery of Modern Art: It’s easy to get lost in Delhi’s shopping scene, but it’s worth stepping away to visit the National Gallery of Modern Art. My father used to deal in artefacts from Rajasthan, and this no doubt ignited my love for Indian art. I am fortunate to have a few antique pieces from my father and some more modern pieces from Indian art galleries. My desire to own more has vanished, but it thrills me to spend hours exploring the paintings here, then pick up a few cards in the gift shop.
PVR Cinema: I have already mentioned the Ambiance Mall. While there, you must head to the cinema. There is nothing quite like the super-plush PVR Cinema in which to experience the latest Bollywood or Hollywood blockbuster. The seats are like sofas, the surround sound is epic, and it serves every kind of popcorn and drink imaginable. That said, this is India, so culturally, don’t be surprised to hear the person seated next to you having a full-on phone conversation while watching the movie. When my husband visited for the first time, he was ready to shout at someone, as he just wanted to take in the movie. He soon realised this is normal for India, and settled in for the full experience.
Harmony House: Set up by Lucy Bruce and Gurav Sinha, Harmony House supports children from the slums to get an education and a decent meal. When I visited three years ago, there were around 200 children. It’s hugely inspiring to see there are now more than 500 children, and the building is growing to include a sports ground and further classrooms. When I was looking for a charity to support with Mauli Rituals, I was immediately struck by Harmony House as you can feel their intentions and see the impact they are making. If you want to support them, head over and see the work they are doing. It puts life into perspective, and gives me energy and motivation to grow my brand. The more we grow, the more we can do.
Visit MAULIRITUALS.COM
DISCLAIMER: We endeavour to always credit the correct original source of every image we use. If you think a credit may be incorrect, please contact us at [email protected].
